Clothing Forum

by Ralph & Mary Briggs

At the Summer Board Meeting in July at Cantigny, Mary and I were appointed Clothier/Patternmasters for the NWTA. Our thanks for Sue Seitz, Linnea Bass and Joan Dobberpuhl for their ongoing help during our "breaking in" period.

The following is a complete list of commercial patterns for which documentation has been previously published in the Nov./Dec. 1993 issue of The Courier by the NWTA Patternmaster. This information is provided simply to prove that the garment is authentic to the 18th century. It is not intended to show that the garment is appropriate for a particular portrayal. Ethnicity, unit, social status, etc. all come to play in determining whether the item is correct for you. Check with your unit commander and/or the IG with your questions. In addition, patterns were not evaluated for fit.

We expect to add to this list, and we encourage people to submit patterns and the relevant documentation for our perusal. In addition, we have other patterns and instructions for many other items which we will publish in this column as we work our way through them.

WOMEN'S PATTERNS

1770 POLONAISE AND PETTICOAT BY PATTERNS FOR PERIOD IMPRESSIONS, #420. Original in the collection of Snowshill Manor. Shown in Patterns of Fashion Vol. I, 1660-1860 by Janet Arnold (London: Macmillan London, 1977; New York: Drama Book Publishers, 1972), p. 37 and 39. Also shown in Costume in Detail: Women's Dress 1730-1930 by Nancy Bradfield (Boston: Plays, Inc. 1983), pp. 57-58.

1760-1770 JACKET BY PATTERNS FOR PERIOD IMPRESSIONS, #421. Original in the collection of Snowshill Manor. Shown in Patterns of Fashion Vol. I, 1660-1860 by Janet Arnold (London: Macmillan London, 1977; New York: Drama Books, 1977), p. 26-27, figure C. Also see Costume in Detail: Women's Dress 1730-1930 by Nancy Bradfield (Boston: Plays, Inc. 1983), p. 45.
Please note: the original has a one piece sleeve and the pattern a two piece sleeve. To be correct, the pattern sleeve should be altered. Cheek Arnold's or Bradfield's books for the shape of the sleeve.

18TH-CENTURY CARACAO BY J.P. RYAN. Documentation is provided with pattern.

SHIFT/CHEMISE PATTERN BY KANNIK'S KORNER #KK 6102. Four variations are included. Documentation is provided with pattern.

18th-CENTURY STRAPLESS STAYS BY J.P. RYAN. Original in the collection of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Shown in An Elegant Art by Edward Maeder (NY: Abrams, 1983), p. 179-180.

18th CENTURY CAPS AND POCKETS BY PATTERNS FOR PERIOD IMPRESSIONS #815. Original cap in the collection of the Historical Society of York County (PA). original pocket in collection of Schwenkfelder Museum. Both shown in Rural Pennsylvania Clothing by Ellen J. Gehret (York, PA: George Shumway, 1976), cap p. 66-67; pocket p. 78-79.

WOMEN'S SHORT CLOAK, SECOND HALF OF 18th CENTURY BY KANNIK'S KORNER #KK6901. Documentation included with pattern.

MEN'S PATTERNS

MEN'S WORK SHIRT BY PATTERNS FOR PERIOD IMPRESSIONS, #756. Originals in the collections of the Germantown (PA) and York (PA) Historical Societies. Shown in Rural Pennsylvania Clothing by Ellen J. Gehret (York, PA: George Shumway, 1976), p. 98, 11 O-124.

18TH CENTURY BREECHES BY PATTERNS FOR PERIOD IMPRESSIONS, #776. Original in the collections of the Germantown (PA) Historical Society. Shown in Rural Pennsylvania Clothing by Ellen J. Gehret (York, PA: George Shumway, 1976), p. 138-147.

1776 MEN'S AND BOYS' WAISTCOAT PATTERN BY PEGEE OF WILLIAMSBURG. Original in the Williamsburg collection. Shown in 18th -Century Clothing at Williamsburg by Linda Baumgarten (Williamsburg, VA: Colonial Williams-burg Foundation, 1986), p. 57-59.

BAR REGIMENTAL COAT PATTERN. Sizes 40, 42, 44, 46, and 48. Available for $12.00 from the BAR Patternmaster, Richard L. Ponsini, 56 West Warren St., Washington, NJ 07882. You may call him after 6:00 PM EST at 908-689-3142.
The coat pattern comes with no instructions. The pattern has standard length body, facings, sleeves, etc. These may need to be altered to make your coat fit properly. We have some various instructions, but have not yet had a chance to review them. More on that later.

The NWTA has a collection of other patterns and instructions for constructing various items, which we will publish as we work our way through them.