The following list consists of commercial patterns that have been reviewed and checked for accuracy of fit, method of construction, directions and documentation. NWTA members who have used patterns not listed here and are satisfied that the documentation and interpretation of evidence is correct are encouraged to contact me so that I might add that pattern to the list.
Additional documentation has been provided when there has been a question as to the authenticity of an item, as well as research articles that will help both new and long term members.
STANDARD DISCLAIMER: Simply because something is listed here does not mean it is appropriate for your persona. Do your own research and check with your unit commander before investing a lot of time and money into something you may not be able to use.
I am always open to constructive criticism and comments so please e-mail email@example.com
Jane Whiteside, NWTA Patternmaster.
Woman’s Cap and Bonnet Fourth
Quarter of the 18th century
By Kannik's Korner, #KK-6601. Both items correct for the period.
Primary documentation included in pattern . Also see following picture from 1774
http://lwlimages.library.yale.edu/walpoleweb/oneITEM.asp?pid=lwlpr03793&iid=lwlpr03793 for added documentation for the bonnet.
18th Caps and pockets By Patterns For Period Impressions #815. Original cap in the collection of the Historical Society of York County (PA). original pocket in collection of Schwenkfelder Museum. Both shown in Rural Pennsylvania Clothing by Ellen J. Gehret (York, PA: George Shumway, 1976), cap p. 66-67; pocket p. 78-79.
Caps and Coif Mid 18th century NFF18101 by la Fleur de Lyse. Three styles of caps styled with French influence with bonus pocket pattern included. Documentation included.
Mill Farm Woman’s Caps: 1720-1800 Four styles with variations offered in one pattern. Documentation included.
Burnley and Trowbridge 18th C Wired Cap. Although no examples of this cap remain many examples are seen in contemporary portraiture and are cited in the documentation included. Pattern also contains wire needed in its construction.
Woman’s Shift: second half of the 18th century by Kannik’s Korner # KK6102 includes sizes S-XXL and has detailed instructions. Documentation included. Plain neck made without drawstring, Shift necklines either had a very narrow drawstring or none at all. The drawstring gathered the neckline just a little for a closer fit.
Basic six piece Wardrobe: It includes patterns for the short gown and pockets and instructions on how to measure and construct shift, petticoat, apron and handkerchief. Available in size S through XXL(bust 32-50). Documentation of most items except the shift and petticoat may be found in Linda Baumgarten's Eighteenth Century Clothing at Williamsburg (Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, Williamsburg, VA, 1986). The shift is a very modest variation of one worn by Catherine, wife of Edmund Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, in the early 18th century, which is in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum and may be seen inside the back cover of Nancy Bradfield's Costume in Detail (Plays Inc, Boston, 1968, 1981). Construction of the petticoat is as one from the Snowshill Collection, 1775-1780, also in Bradfield, page 63. All the basics for the beginning re-enactor, just add a cap to complete the outfit.
Research on Shortgowns by Mara Riley
Canadienne de la Nouvelle-France circa 1740-1760 by La Fleur De Lyse. Multi sized, includes patterns for Mantelet (jacket), French and English style shifts with instructions for petticoat, neckerchief and apron. Dated early for the revolutionary war period but little had changed and is correct for those interpreting a person from a predominantly French community. Documentation included.
Northern Society of Costume and Textiles #02. Not a pattern but a cutting diagram and instructions. This is a jacket and petticoat based on an original and although the style is not correct for the period 1775-1783 it is included here for the detailed description of the construction method. The outfit has been altered several times and the cloth was carbon dated to be about 60 years older than the known provenance.
1760-1770 Jacket By
Patterns For Period Impressions #421. Original in the collection of Snowshill
Manor. Shown in Patterns of Fashion Vol. I, 1660-1860 by Janet Arnold
(London: Macmillan London, 1977; New York: Drama Books, 1977), p. 26-27, figure
C. Also shown in Costume in Detail: Women's Dress 1730-1930 by Nancy
Bradfield (Boston: Plays, Inc. 1983), p. 45.
Please note: the original has a one-piece sleeve and the pattern a two-piece sleeve. correct, the pattern sleeve should be altered. Check Arnold's or Bradfield's books for the shape of the sleeve
A Fine Collection of Women’s Jackets for Undress wear by JPRyan Documentation included
‘A Timeline of Women’s Jackets 1550-1800’ by Mara Rileyhttp://www.marariley.net/jackets/jackets.htm
. 18th century Caraco byJPRyan Documentation included. A long jacket designed to be worn over 18th century strapless stays. Four pattern sizes 6-8, 10-12, 14-16 & 18-20(bust 32-46)
Lined Jacket or Caraco by Fig Leaf patterns. This usual jacket pattern is taken from an original in Cora Ginsburg’s collection believed to have been remade from a man’s waistcoat ca. 1770. The historical notes are an interesting read. Two grouped sizings 8-18 (32.5-41)in one pattern and 18Q-28Q (41-51)
**Woman’s bodice by Eagles View it cannot be documented except as underwear and when adjusted for the side seams to be toward the back and made to fit to give support for the body. These were often quilted and worn for warmth under a shortgown or other outer clothing. Not to be worn as outer clothing or away from camp area or home. When in the street, clothing considered underwear was covered.
See “The Mythical bodice” by Ingrid Schaaphook
and “An Analysis of an 18th Century Woman’s Quilted Waistcoat” by Sharon Ann Burnston http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com/waistct.htm
Woman’s Bedgown “Manteau de Lit” 1730-1770 by Kannik’s Korner documentation included with original text from Garsault alongside the English translation. Garment commonly worn as day wear by working class women. http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/18mdelit.shtml
Manteau de Lit (Bedgown) by JPRan Available in sizes S(32-24) through XXL (48-50).
European Bed Gown by Mill Farm Patterns All sizes 12-18 in one packet. Documentation included.
STAYS AND JUMPS
18th C. Strapless Stays By Janice Pence Ryan. Includes instructions for making leather stays. Original in the collection of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Shown in An Elegant Art by Edward Maeder (NY: Abrams, 1983), p. 179-180. One size per pattern 6-24, bust sizes 32-50
18th Century Woman’s Jumps or Leather Stays by Mill Farm. Documentation included. Jumps are partially boned with shoulder straps. Sizes 8-18 one size per pattern
Research articles about stays:
‘A Timeline of Women’s stays 1600-1800’ by Mara
‘Objectively speaking a case for 18th
century stays’ by Sally Queen
Also, images borrowed from a listing on eBay of a pair of 18th century stays recently offered for sale (394k).
Woman’s Short Cloak, Second half of the 18th century By Kannik's Korner #KK 6901. Documentation included with pattern. Multi sized S-XXL
This pattern is also available for girl’s KK-8901 includes sizes 4,7 & 10
Long or Short Cloak by Mill Farms designed by Sharon Ann Burnston, one size fits all. Not a full size pattern, cutting diagram and directions only. May be made short or long, with or without collar and offers two sizes of hoods. Based on a cloak in the collection at Colonial Williamsburg. Pattern is correct except that advice includes using a metal cloak clasp as one of the choices for the front closure but this is a 19th century item. This was confirmed by Ms. Burnston, she said after the pattern was published she then discovered that there is no evidence at the present time for metal cloak clasps in the18th century.
Stockings, Pockets and Mitts #KK6001 by Kannik’s Korner
Has detailed instructions for the construction of cloth stockings documented from 1660-1800. Elbow length mitts similar to extant pairs held by the Connecticut Historical Society and pockets of several styles: English, Scottish, Italian and American based on originals in the Los Angeles County Museum. Details included in pattern.
Mitts and Flounces by Mill Farm Includes three sizes and whitework instructions for the ruffles. Documentation included.
Man’s Shirt (KK-401) and Boy’s Shirt and work shirt (KK-8101) in the English style, both of the Second Half of the 18th Century, by Kannik's Korner. The Man's Shirt comes with sizes XS through XXXL in one package, the Boy's with sizes 4 through 14. Documentation is included with the patterns.
*Men’s Work Shirt By Patterns For Period Impression #756. Originals in the collections of the Germantown (PA) and York (PA) Historical Societies. Shown in Rural Pennsylvania Clothing by Ellen J. Gehret (York, PA: George Shumway, 1976), p. 98, 11 O-124. The shirt cited here is 19th century style to adapt it for the 18th century cut the cuff piece so the finished cuff is 1” wide and the finished width of the collar should be no more than 2” wide.
Shirt By JPRyan Three sizes per pattern. This pattern incorporates features from 18th century shirts in the collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum, The National Museum of American History and Gunston Hall Plantation Museum. The method used for finishing the front opening is incorrect, it should be a rolled hem and reinforced at the lower end with a faggoting stitch.
Breeches by JPRyan based on breeches in the collections of Colonial Williamsburg, The National Museum of American History, and the Museum of the City of London. Excellent pattern made to fit low on the hips in front and higher in the back as with any breeches pattern the legs have to be individually fit to give them the correct tightly fitting leg for late 18th century.
Broadfall Drop Front Breeches By Eagle's View (PM/73). Waist sizes 30 through 42 included. A relatively simple breeches pattern with no pockets. They are the correct normal waist height style of the later 18th century, but need to be tightened in the leg to be correct to our era, and loosened in the crotch to fit a man. See the Breeches Notes for instructions on how to do this.
*18th Century Breeches By Patterns For Period Impressions #776 Original in the collections of the Germantown (PA) Historical Society. Shown in ‘Rural Pennsylvania Clothing’ by Ellen J. Gehret (York, PA: George Shumway, 1976), p. 138-147. Not correct The pair of breeches cited here is clearly marked with the date 1812 and you can see where the waistband is beginning to rise in the front.
Men’s Drop Front Breeches by Mill Farm Patterns Common or dress breeches with an option for workingman’s overall’s. Instructions also include an option for workingman’s overalls. Two sizes per pattern 28/30, 32/34, 36/38. Documentation included.
Men’s Gaitered Trousers by Smoke and Fire. Correct for the period but the instructions are not good and be aware that the pattern offers an alternative for pockets but doesn’t adjust the body pattern to accommodate the change.
Man’s Outer Breeches “Slops” 1750-1820 by Kannik’s Korner Waist sizes from 32-52 in one pattern. Documentation is included with the pattern. They are a protective garment worn by Sailors, Fishermen, Farmers, Fieldworkers and Laborers. Usually made of tight canvas or sailcloth and may be oiled or varnished to make them waterproof. Outer breeches were worn on top of knee breeches and have many names ascribed to them.
“Slops” actually describes the entire outfit worn by sailors not just the outer breeches.
Waistcoat by JPRyan This original waistcoat pattern is fashioned after three extant examples, one in the collection of The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, one in the collection of The Smithsonian Institution, and another in the Cut of Men's Clothes, by Norah Waugh. The shorter version is correct for 1775-1783 either with or without sleeves.
Men’s Waistcoat ca. 1770 and Shirt by Mill Farm Patterns Two sizes per pattern 36/36, 38/40 and 42/44. Documentation included.
Waistcoat and Vest Pattern By Eagle's View (PM/68). Includes sizes 36 through 50. Waistcoat approved, but not the vest. Styled well to Rev War, not earlier. Makes a good military waistcoat. Move the pocket line down to be on a line from the top of the v-cut in the front to the top of the center seam in back.
1776 Men’s and Boys Wasitcoats By Pegee Of Williamsburg. Original in the Williamsburg collection. Shown in 18th Century Clothing at Williamsburg by Linda Baumgarten (Williamsburg, VA: Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 1986), p. 57-59.
COATS AND JACKETS
BAR Regimental Coat Sizes 40, 42, 44, 46, and 48. patterns This pattern may be under revision at this time.
Buy this pattern at least two sizes larger than your usual size. There are no instructions. The pattern has standard length body, facings, sleeves, etc. These may need to be altered to make your coat fit properly. If your unit wears a uniform coat, be sure to check with your unit commander that this is the correct style for you.
Man’s Double-Breasted Short Jacket 1770-1800 by Kannik’s Korner KK-4551 Documentation includes primary sources from paintings and extant garments. This is a workman’s jacket worn by farmers, sailors, laborers, apprentices and others.
Frock Coat by JPRyan Sizes 40-48, one size per pattern and includes adjustments for long and short sizes. Documentation included.
Great Coat by Mill Farm One size for chest 44. Double Breasted outerwear with choice of collar and shoulder cape options. Documentation included.
Great Coat, C 1780-1800 Pattern in chart form in the book Fitting and Proper by Sharon Ann Burnston, Made from an original the instructions are detailed and include photographs. It fits about a chest 36. Dated a little late for the Revolutionary war period but when looking at paintings and engravings where great coats are shown this is a good example of a coat for use during the American Revolution. The capes from this pattern also fit onto the pattern in Beth Gilgun’s book Tidings from the 18th century.
Man’s Banyan and Cap by Mill Farms Patterns. Worn at home as loungewear and at times in public as un-dress. Chest sizes 34-44 included on one pattern. Documentation included.
Man’s Accessories: Common Items used by Men of all Classes c. 1740-1830 KK-4401 by Kannik’s Korner includes instructions for a linen neck stock, sizes 13 1/2 thru 19 ½; Common apron in four sizes; Mittens 3XS-4XL; Hood; night cap, one size; Pocketbook, both folded and tied styles; and directions for making a wallet.
The authenticity of the hood has been questioned but it was copied from an extant example of the period in a Danish museum and it may be presumed that it would have traveled in the luggage of Danish immigrants but up to the present time no known documentation can be found of it’s use on this side of the Atlantic.
Girl’s cap and bonnet, last quarter of the 18th C. by Kannick's Korner, #KK-8601. In three sizes.
Girl’s Short Cloak 2nd Half 18th C. by Kannik’s Korner Documentation included All sizes in one pattern
Infants Clothing 2nd Half 18th C. by Kannik’s Korner. Documentation included. Contains patterns for shirt, Bedgown, Robe Blanket, Frock, Cap and under cap, Boy’s cap or night cap. Also includes directions for Diapers, Rollers, Squares of flannel and suggestions for Pilches/diaper covers.Sizes newborn, 6,12, 18 months. Taken from original pattern when babies were smaller, adjust for today’s larger infants.
Infants Gown 1750-90 by Mill Farm Patterns. Included are diagrams and instructions for shirt and petticoat. Sizes 3-9 months. Documentation included.
Infant and children's clothing online patterns, instructions and other information http://www.sharonburnston.com/baby_linen/index.html
Child/Girls Gown by Mill Farm Patterns includes cutting diagrams and instructions for shift. Two sizes per pattern 2/3 –10/11. Documentation included.
Boy’s Shirts second half of the 18th C.by Kannik’s Korner. Contains full size patterns of an English Shirt and Work Shirt. Multiple sized pattern 4-14 Work shirt sizes 6-14
Boy’s Drop Front Breeches 1770-1800 by Mill Farm Patterns. Two sizes per pattern 20/21, 22/23, 24/25. Documentation included.
Boy’s Frock Coat 1760-1780 by Mill Farm Patterns. Two sizes per pattern S- 4/5 (chest 23/24), XL-10/11(29/30). Documentation included
Boy’s Waistcoat ca 1770 by Mill Farms Patterns includes diagram and instruction for shirt. Documentation included. Two sizes per pattern S-4/5 (chest 23/24), M-6/7 (chest 25/26) and L-8/9(chest 27/28)
New France Boys by La Fleur de Lyse includes Shirt. Two styles of waistcoat, two styles of breeches. Cap and instructions for cravat and handkerchief. Documentation included. Only the styles noted for 1750-1760 would be appropriate. Children’s styles did not change much into the 1770’s except perhaps for the children of the gentry.
New France Girls by La Fleur de Lyse Includes patterns for shift and pockets, two styles of lined bodices, Instructions for neckerchief, collar, petticoat and apron, ruffled cap (18th C.) and cape. Documentation included. Only those items noted as for1750-1760 would be appropriate styles for lower sort children didn’t change considerably into the 1770’s.
Woman’s Knitted Stockings (knee-high) by Mill Farms patterns. Instructions for using sport weight yarn with an option for silk and cotton. Documentation included.
18th C. Knitted Mittens by Mara Riley includes a full range of sizes for adults and children. Made with out ribbing, documentation included.
18th C. Knitted Women’s Mitts, by Mara Riley. One size. No extant ones known but designed after a 1748 advertisement in which Elizabeth Boyd of New York offered “All sorts of stockings newly grafted and run at the hells, and footed; also Gloves, mittens and Children’s Stockings made out of Stockings,” Three years later she advertised again “….to graft Pieces in Knit jackets and Breeches, not to be discern’d, also to graft and foot stockings, and Gentleman’s Gloves, Mittens or Muffatees and made out of old Stockings, or runs them in the heels.” ‘What Clothes Reveal’ page 185.
Scots Bonnet by Mara Riley Documentation Included.
Knitted 17th C. cap with Brim designed by Noel M.R. McGonigle and produced by Plimoth Plantation.
No documentation given although the style appears to be correct for a cap commonly worn into the 18th C. except for the design on the brim which I cannot vouch for. I’ve made it in all stocking stitch and also made it considerably longer to replicate a French toque.